Total Art Festival Cafe and Bar

| Wednesday, April 20, 2011 | 2 comments |

Cee’s place rests on top of a hill that overlooks much of the Mapo-Gu area. To get there you have to gear your legs up for the 4-5 minute incline that starts down at the main roads.  As you begin your ‘hike’ up from the mouth of exit 5 at Sinchon Station, you pass by the usual places: shops, restaurants, language centers, and cafes.  They fade behind you as you continue your ascent and are replaced by brick apartment buildings reinforced with concrete and stone.  You’re sure there are so few businesses up here because, well, to put it simply, it’d take too much effort for the average person to climb their way up.

As things would have it, in the last year the business district has been expanding up the hill. At a surreptitiously fast pace, buildings are being restored and converted into businesses including restaurants and coffee shops which has led to a sense of change in the air.

Sean
Total Art Festival, located a mere 30-seconds from the top of the hill, is one such business that is ushering in this change. TAF, as it is called for short, just recently opened at the beginning of this month. It is both a gallery and café and is the brain-child of  Kookmin University graduate, Dori Lee. After first noticing the black and white sign above the entrance way and the small stand of freshly planted bamboo next to it, Cee and I let our curiosity get the best of us. 
We walked in to find Dori and her barista, 전형근, or Sean, working behind the bar, and the owner of the establishment, 김성원, or Michael, busy on his laptop in a small cove-like room off to the side. Although they wouldn’t officially be open for another week, Dori and Sean served us two cappuccinos. I immediately liked the industrial feel of the place with its faux-exposed piping, installed for aesthetic effect, and bare concrete walls which contrasted well with the kaleidoscopic colors of the tables and chairs. Added to the color palette was the dark, warm wood of the bar.
Dori, having majored in art and design, opened TAF to provide a space where her customers could customize their orders and be surrounded by good art and music. “It’s hard to find restaurants where [you can do this].” Besides a selection of coffee drinks, sodas, teas, and alcoholic beverages, she also plans to put salads, bagels, and desserts on the menu. 
Her Dori-Lee-cious salads will have tofu, shrimp, or chicken, and bagels will be like the “ones you would find on the West Coast [in the United States] with hummus, sprouts, tomatoes, and romaine lettuce.”  Lettuce will either be taken from Dori’s organic lettuce garden or bought locally. And Friday nights, they will have live music and performances.  “TAF is my playground,” says Dori as she begins to explain how she plans to integrate “art” into the space. 
Dori and friends
As a dance instructor, movement is a vital part of her project in making TAF. She wishes to install a pole next month off to one side (not for exotic dancing) but to have vertical art performances like the ones you would see in any Cirque Du Soleil show. “Koreans are too shy to take part in music and dance traditions from around the world,” says Dori. She hopes that providing her customers with a place to enjoy good artwork and performances will lead to a growing appreciation for international art.

Hours of operation: 11am-11pm (and sometimes til later). 
For upcoming events:
   Facebook: Total Art Festival Cafe and Bar
   Twitter: TAFinSeoul

Cee



Migo Bakery

| Sunday, March 6, 2011 | 0 comments |

Think of Italy and rich, earthy, buttery tones. 
Then, think of Migo Bakery in the heart of Seoul. 
Migo, unlike its cold, gray surroundings, is a warm cloak of earthy hues and textures. Its façade imitates the look of an Italian bakery, or the Korean notion of one, with its black window-shop doors, wrought-iron handles and a circular sign hanging above the door. It has an enclosed patio where you can sit at tables on wicker chairs in the open air when temperatures are warm.

Even before you walk in, the European look evokes images of baskets of bread loaves amidst cookie tins, cheese, and sliced meat, and links of sausages strung from the ceiling. The visual smorgasbord might be accompanied by the mingled aromas of espressos and hot sandwiches and the heat of the stove.  Such high expectations you may have.

You walk in, and you find to your pleasure that the interior does not disappoint. Freshly-baked loaves of breads, pastries, and desserts are displayed in well-lit display cases at the front, under the counter, and in the back. The loaves’ tags read ciabatta, foccaccia, croissant, rye, and Italian roll. You can smell the potpourri of flour and sugar mixed in with cinnamon, nutmeg, and oil. You eye the Danish rolls on the top shelf and spot jars of Green Tea and Almond Cookies as you move through the line, and you glance at the bakers in the back. You notice how the brick wall pleasantly frames them; their movements eclipsed by the bustle of the cashiers as they move back and forth taking people’s orders. Your eyes then travel up to a hanging display of garlic, peppers, and copper pots and pans before finally resting on the mounted menu displays of the sandwiches, salads, beverages, and desserts they serve.

Cee and I decided to come here for lunch last Sunday. We hadn’t planned on turning our outing into our next moment of exploration for our blog, but we considered the place too charming to not include in our next post. Their selection of cold and hot sandwiches looked large at first until I saw that over half of their salads and sandwiches were “sold out”. Gone for the day were their Rosemary Camembert, Kraftcorn Bread, Burritos, Brie Apple, and Ciabatta Grilled Sausage sandwiches among others. Despite my diminished choices, I still felt I had found a culinary gem in Migo and made a note to come back here again.
The line was long and Cee and I had arrived late; the place was obviously a favorite among certain Seoulites. The offerings also included freshly squeezed juice, teas, coffee, espressos, and desserty tarts and cakes made there in the establishment. They had something I’d never heard of before that they called “yogoccino”. Perhaps a cross between yoghurt and frappuccino. I'll have to order one next time. Prices ranged from 5,000 to 7,000 for sandwiches, 2,000 to 5,000 won for drinks, and 3,000-7,000 won for desserts. They also offered set meals of sandwiches and americanos, their morning pack being 4,500 won and the lunch pack (with “vegetable fried rice”) 4,900 won. Cee ordered a sandwich (which disappeared fast), clam chowder, and freshly-squeezed orange juice, All were enjoyed thoroughly. I ordered a pre-wrapped salmon and cream cheese sandwich on an Italian roll which I liked but would've given a B rating. It lacked something...more innards and dressing perhaps. Despite this, I still wanted to come back to the bakery another day and try some of their other fare.

Migo is worth checking out. The prices are reasonable, selection is extensive, and they have plenty of seating in the front and back and on the second floor. Seriously, go check it out, and if you are impressed (or not) leave a comment here on this blog! Bon appétit!


Subway directions to Migo:
Ride the green line, line 2, to Ehwa Woman's University and take exit 1.
 Walk straight for about 300 yards. You'll pass by a Rotiboy...
 ...and a Tom N Toms. Keep going until you hit the next major intersection.
 Turn right at the intersection. There'll be a Nonghyup bank on your right.
Walk. A Smoothie King will come into view. 










When you approach the street, you'll see a huge Megaplex and the Sinchon train station on your left across the street. Smoothie King will be right in front of you. Turn right, down the lane.
Walk fewer than 100 yards, and Migo's oval sign will come into view on your right.



Seodaemun Museum of Natural History

| Sunday, February 27, 2011 | 1 comments |

Imagine for a moment that you are the curator of a natural history museum. As visitors enter your museum, what visual image do you want them to see?

(Think of a cliché.)

A T-Rex, perhaps?

Oh yes.
Definitely a cliché, but clichés exist for a reason.

The Seodaemun Museum of Natural History has its star attraction right here in the main hall. Big, bold and aggressive, the King strikes a menacing pose letting first-time viewers know who’s really in charge of the local tyranny around here. As we entered the building, the group before us let out a chorus of "oohs" and "aahs", and Vee and I upon seeing the "terrible dragon" (trans. lit. from Korean) stood in awe of it for a few moments. The astonishment soon turned into curiosity...and determination...to get on the dinosaur...


...or at least create the illusion that we had.

Natural history museums come in all shapes and flavours.  The museum that I grew up with back home was a rather serious and academic affair. Hushed voices, long corridors, people on their best behaviour and beautiful exhibits.

The Seodaemun museum, too, has beautiful exhibits but there the similarity ends. The museum has a much more family-oriented atmosphere and, by family, I really mean for children.  For a day's outing with the children, the museum is an excellent choice. Parents can leave the stroller at home as they've got plenty for use there.

There are buttons to push and panels to open. Hanging skeletons of ancient flying monsters suspended in air. Mini movies of exploding planets and others of massive volcanoes. Dinosaur poop, long-lost sea beds, human skulls, tiny frogs, real live sharks, geological specimens and other wonders too numerous to mention. There were children everywhere of all ages running around and examining everything yet none of them looked in the least bit bored. That’s about as good a recommendation as you are likely to get.

The museum building is quite new, having been built in 2003. This shows in the lighting and floor layout of the building. Everything is accessible and easy on the eyes. It’s not a big museum but great care and imagination has gone into the displays, and there is something for all tastes here. This is Korea so technical wizardry is used to good effect to help inform and entertain.

It’s one thing to see images of animals both ancient and modern on television but nothing beats getting up close and personal with the real thing. Have a yen for Orthoceras (and who doesn’t?) Or perhaps Triceratops is more your “bag”? When was the last time you got a decent fix of Stromatolites, hmm?  The Seodaemun has some first-rate specimens.

One important thing that the museum has worked on is context.  Unlike a random collection of curios that some eccentric millionaire might store in a private collection, the displays clearly show the time frame and environment from where the animals came from. This helps create a contextual framework and leads the visitor to a greater appreciation and understanding of the animals themselves. For me, the dinosaur family tree, the display of the evolution of whales and the pre-historic sea-beds were excellent examples of this kind of forethought and good planning.

To round things off, there’s a children’s library, a gift shop, a coffee chop and a roof-top playground dinosaur “petting zoo”. The museum covers several different floors, but there is a large modern lift available and the floor layout seems well-suited to wheelchairs.

We hope you have a wonderful time at the museum as we did. This outing may just bring out the kid in you.

Status: Recommended.




Location & Directions
서울시 서대문박물관길 25연희3동 산5-58)
Bangmulgwan-Gil 25 Seodaemun-Gu, Seoul Korea 120-113
Phone: 02-330-8899
Website: http://namu.sdm.go.kr/

From Sinchon Station or Yonsei University Main Gate, take Bus #3 and get off at 자연사박물관 (ja-yeon-sa-bang-mul-gwan). The stop for this is not labeled in English, but the stop after (Seodaemun-gu Office) is. So if you find yourself at Seodaemun-gu Office, you'll want to get off and walk back to the museum's stop.

 This is what you should see when you get off the bus.







Follow the road up. You will want to cross the road first to get on the right side as the steps that Vee is standing on in the picture come to an end.






What you should see as you're climbing up.







The view from your left.








Once at the top of the hill, you'll turn left through the main entrance and walk another hundred yards or so. You'll pass restrooms and a playground on your right. From then on, there will be signs to point you in the right direction.





Admission


'Aporia' Art Exhibit by Artist Lee Jung

| Saturday, February 19, 2011 | 0 comments |
Nobody goes to art galleries. People typically prefer to stay at home on the week-ends. Even at gunpoint, the very thought of leaving the comfort of TV and Internet and getting out there for a cultural experience is anathema to most people.
However, today that trend was officially bucked.

Today, your noble Cee invited the incomparable Vee to get up and go out…to visit an art
gallery. Vee did a bang-up job of finding a small, art gallery in a ritzy part of Seoul and we both went out to make a day of it.

 The art gallery was tucked out of the way from the main drag. Took us a few false turns to find the place yet find it we did. The place was small but we had it all virtually to ourselves. Freedom of movement was not an issue and we could comment on the exhibits openly without fear of disturbing anybody.

The art on display had a consistent running theme of neon-lit phrases lying isolated and out-of-place in bleak and deserted natural landscapes.

Odd.

Not the sort of thing I commonly expect to see. However, commonly
expected sights I can get at home any time. I came to see something new. This indeed was new.

The phrases embedded within the exhibits were banal. Banal declarations of love that insipid lovers are culturally straight-jacketed to whisper to each other. Declarations of love that are repeated a thousand times a day in the lyrics of fuzzy warbles on your radio and Internet play-lists. Traditional, short, saccharin sweet phrases that, once swallowed, leave only a slight bitter after-taste.

These phrases were taken from their natural environment and dumped somewhere bleak, cold and lonely in the wilderness-in glaring neon no less. The effect was puzzling and at first, both myself and Vee were at a loss to understand the point of it all. Had we reached a dead-end here? Chosen a bad gallery for our first, tentative foray in the art world? Should we leave the gallery in puzzlement and disappointment? No, there was no need for such drastic measures.



As we quickly learned, all good culture vultures should feel free to leaf through the
handout that is given freely at reception to help visitors understand the motivation and background of the artist in question. In this case, the handout proved to be the key to it all. It may feel a little bit like cheating but going to an art gallery shouldn’t be treated like an exam. If somebody gives you a guide on what you will see then take it. Read it! Valuable information may well lie within.


Both I and Vee left the gallery with satisfaction and enjoyment. What at first glance
appeared to be something rather mundane and strange turned out to be thought-
provoking and novel. It was something new to see. A chance to get out of the house and
engage with the out-of-the-ordinary.

Check out the photos and comments by the artist. If you are in town, grab a friend and see it for yourself.

Status: Recommended.
Website and directions: One&J Gallery